{"id":9014,"date":"2013-08-10T15:02:39","date_gmt":"2013-08-10T13:02:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/?p=9014"},"modified":"2014-10-20T20:09:43","modified_gmt":"2014-10-20T18:09:43","slug":"cesku-s-kardiostimulatorem-z-pamiru-sfoukl-vichr-presto-slavi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/?p=9014","title":{"rendered":"\u010ce\u0161ku s kardiostimul\u00e1torem z Pamiru sfoukl vichr, p\u0159esto slav\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Nevy\u0161lo to. Siln\u00e1 vich\u0159ice odfoukla nad\u011bje \u017eeny (foto), jej\u00ed\u017e srdce tlu\u010de s pomoc\u00ed kardiostimul\u00e1toru, \u017ee i p\u0159es handicap zdol\u00e1 velehoru Muztagh Ata. P\u0159esto vytvo\u0159ila rekord.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Por\u00e1\u017eka, a p\u0159esto sou\u010dasn\u011b i v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00ed. Dobrodru\u017estv\u00ed horolezkyn\u011b Mark\u00e9ty Han\u00e1kov\u00e9, kter\u00e1 se i p\u0159es zdravotn\u00ed handicap rozhodla vyzvat 43. nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed horu sv\u011bta, pam\u00edrsk\u00fd Muztagh Ata, skon\u010dilo t\u011bsn\u011b p\u0159ed c\u00edlem. \u010ci p\u0159esn\u011bji, 240 metr\u016f pod vrcholem velehory, jej\u00ed\u017e \u0161pi\u010dka se klene do v\u00fd\u0161ky 7 546 metr\u016f. Olomouck\u00e9 sportovce nepustil do c\u00edle siln\u00fd vichr.<\/p>\n<p>P\u0159esto (a tak\u00e9 navzdory omrzlin\u00e1m a tot\u00e1ln\u00edmu vy\u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed) se vracej\u00ed do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora bez stopy smutku. Ba co v\u00edc. Chystaj\u00ed se oslavovat t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 stejn\u011b, jako kdyby Otce ledov\u00fdch hor, co\u017e je v p\u0159ekladu jm\u00e9no t\u0159et\u00edho nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00edho vrcholu poho\u0159\u00ed Pam\u00edr, zdolali. V\u00fd\u0161ka 7 300 metr\u016f, do kter\u00e9 se Han\u00e1kov\u00e1 dostala, je toti\u017e nov\u00fdm, by\u0165 neofici\u00e1ln\u00edm, zn\u00e1m\u00fdm sv\u011btov\u00fdm maximem \u010dlov\u011bka, jeho\u017e srdce se neobejde bez pomoci kardiostimul\u00e1toru.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Horolezkyni ul\u00e9tla termoska, na horu \u0161plhala bez vody<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Han\u00e1kov\u00e1 a jej\u00ed par\u0165\u00e1k Zden\u011bk Hodin\u00e1\u0159 zah\u00e1jili z\u00e1v\u011bre\u010dn\u00fd v\u00fdstup ve \u010dtvrtek. U\u017e p\u0159edt\u00edm hl\u00e1sili, \u017ee na ho\u0159e panuje \u0161patn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed: &#8222;V posledn\u00edch dnech bylo naho\u0159e peklo, ale m\u00e1 se to lep\u0161it. Uvid\u00edme, kam a\u017e n\u00e1s hora, po\u010das\u00ed a na\u0161e t\u011bla pust\u00ed.&#8220; Ve\u010der pak prost\u0159ednictv\u00ed satelitn\u00edho telefonu ohl\u00e1sili, \u017ee se v\u00fdstup nezda\u0159il. &#8222;Vrchol n\u00e1m unikl o 240 metr\u016f,&#8220; napsali p\u0159i n\u00e1vratu do t\u0159et\u00edho v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora C3.<\/p>\n<p>Jejich jedin\u00fd pokus o zdol\u00e1n\u00ed vrcholu jim nakonec zhatilo pr\u00e1v\u011b \u0161patn\u00e9 po\u010das\u00ed. &#8222;Foukal siln\u00fd v\u00edtr. Mark\u00e9t\u011b nav\u00edc p\u0159i v\u00fdstupu ul\u00e9tla termoska do \u00fadol\u00ed a byla bez vody,&#8220; popsali z hory. &#8222;I tak jsme ale s dosa\u017eenou v\u00fd\u0161kou spokojen\u00ed, v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b Mark\u00e9ty \u2013 \u017eeny s kiardiostimul\u00e1torem \u2013 je to ur\u010dit\u011b \u00fasp\u011bch, dosud byla nejvy\u0161\u0161\u00ed dosa\u017een\u00e1 v\u00fd\u0161ka 6 500 metr\u016f. V p\u00e1tek sestoup\u00edme do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora a pak u\u017e budeme jen slavit!&#8220; vzk\u00e1zali zp\u011bt do \u010ceska.<\/p>\n<p>V\u010dera olomouck\u00e9 horolezce v t\u00e1bo\u0159e C3 p\u0159iv\u00edtal op\u011bt mimo\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b siln\u00fd v\u00edtr. &#8222;Mus\u00edme vykopat zasn\u011b\u017een\u00fd stan, ve vich\u0159ici ho sbalit a sej\u00edt do C2,&#8220; hl\u00e1sili. B\u011bhem dne pak \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011b sestoupili do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Omrzl\u00e9 prsty a z\u00e1n\u011bt pr\u016fdu\u0161ek. Ale ta kr\u00e1sa&#8230;<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>N\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e1 cesta si v\u0161ak vy\u017e\u00e1dala i svou da\u0148: &#8222;Bilance zn\u00ed: omrzliny na prstech, minim\u00e1ln\u011b z\u00e1n\u011bt pr\u016fdu\u0161ek, stra\u0161n\u00e1 \u00fanava, tot\u00e1ln\u00ed vy\u010derp\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159i sestupu. Ale ta kr\u00e1sa a majest\u00e1tnost velk\u00fdch hor, s\u00edla okam\u017eiku, siln\u00e9 z\u00e1\u017eitky, fyzick\u00e1 a psychick\u00e1 o\u010dista a spousta siln\u00fdch v\u011bc\u00ed, to se ani ned\u00e1 popsat,&#8220; zn\u00ed zat\u00edm posledn\u00ed zpr\u00e1va od \u010cech\u016f.<\/p>\n<p>O tom, \u017ee cesta na vrchol nebude \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd pohodov\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161lap, p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010doval Muztagh Ata \u010dleny v\u00fdpravy po celou dobu, kdy se na fin\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00fdstup chystali. Nap\u0159\u00edklad za\u010d\u00e1tkem t\u00fddne p\u0159i prvn\u00ed cest\u011b do t\u00e1bora C3 za\u017eila Han\u00e1kov\u00e1 pern\u00e9 chv\u00edle. &#8222;Posledn\u00ed \u00fasek v\u00fdstupu do C3 jsem odhadovala na 10 minut, ale nakonec jsem ve v\u011btru a sn\u011b\u017een\u00ed \u0161la je\u0161t\u011b 45 minut,&#8220; popsala.<\/p>\n<p>Ov\u0161em nejen po\u010das\u00ed p\u0159ipravovalo cestou nahoru \u010cech\u016fm p\u0159ekvapen\u00ed. Jedno z m\u00e9n\u011b p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdch za\u017eili horolezci p\u0159i druh\u00e9 cest\u011b ze z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u00e1bora do druh\u00e9ho v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora: &#8222;V C1 i v C2 n\u00e1m ve stanech spali n\u011bjac\u00ed Rusov\u00e9. V C1 n\u00e1m vyp\u00e1lili plyn a v C2 n\u00e1m \u00fadajn\u011b m\u011bli sn\u00edst i z\u00e1soby, ale na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nesn\u011bdli.&#8220;<\/p>\n<p>Co se t\u00fdk\u00e1 j\u00eddla, maj\u00ed \u010ce\u0161i p\u0159ed n\u00e1vratem z velehory jasno. &#8222;T\u011b\u0161\u00edme se na p\u00e1rky a pivo. R\u00fd\u017ee, bambusov\u00e9 v\u00fdhonky a mo\u0159sk\u00e9 \u0159asy u\u017e n\u00e1m lezou krkem,&#8220; podot\u00fdkaj\u00ed horolezci.<\/p>\n<p>&#8212;<\/p>\n<p>Mlad\u00e1 fronta DNES<\/p>\n<p>Jakub \u0160tos<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<div class=\"mh-excerpt\"><p>Nevy\u0161lo to. Siln\u00e1 vich\u0159ice odfoukla nad\u011bje \u017eeny (foto), jej\u00ed\u017e srdce tlu\u010de s pomoc\u00ed kardiostimul\u00e1toru, \u017ee i p\u0159es handicap zdol\u00e1 velehoru Muztagh Ata. P\u0159esto vytvo\u0159ila rekord.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":8198,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9014","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-spolecnost"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9014","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9014"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9014\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/8198"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9014"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9014"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.invarena.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9014"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}